The Parkview opens in Wantagh

If you’re a South Shore fan of Brendo’s King of Heroes in Williston Park, you’re in luck: Chef Brendan Banks is the man in the kitchen at The Parkview, a new upscale bar and grill in Wantagh. Replacing Scuttlebutt Tavern, the space has been given a complete overhaul, rendering it light and bright, ushering in a new era for the restaurant.

"The old place had an old man vibe," explained Banks of the previous occupant’s dark wood paneling and dim lighting. The three-partner team at Parkview — which consists of Banks in back, Liz Griesch in front, and Scott Arenella as builder and financier — had a vision for the two-room space. He explained they wanted to create a spot that would attract both young professionals and families. 

While Brendo’s remains a separate entity in Williston Park — now with a bar serving beer and wine in the evenings — Banks’ French dip and cheesesteak (both $21.85) are on the menu at Parkview. Here, however, Banks is "braising the ribeye in the juice, instead of slicing it raw and shredding it," like at Brendo’s. No matter, it’s just as good, and this menu goes far past cheesesteak.

Starters include fresh cut potato chips ($7.50) with a garlic aioli dip, house-made mozzarella sticks ($12.50), French onion soup ($9.50), and wings ($14.75) served Buffalo, Korean, and Nashville styles. There are four chicken sandwiches including a crispy chipotle offering ($16.70) and a grilled BLT riff ($17.70), plus burgers from standard to smothered ($17.70), topped with Gruyere cheese, caramelized onions and mushrooms and a house brown gravy. If sandos aren’t your bag, there are Cobb ($21.85), Caesar and shrimp ($23.95) salads, a 12-ounce hanger steak ($35.50), a crab cake ($35.50), and "their most popular singular item," steak tidbits ($24.95), sliced over garlic bread, topped with melted mozzarella and crispy onions, and served with fresh-cut fries that can be truffled ($2.25 upcharge).

Banks grew up in East Williston, but lived in Seaford for seven years after serving in the Army. Involved in the first Burgerology opening in Rockville Centre and a former partner in Elsie Lane Wings in Bellmore, he was familiar with the area. "Once I heard Wantagh, up and coming with the young professionals, I was sold," he said says of his latest South Shore endeavor.

Sleek yet approachable, the bar side of the massive space glitters with white marble, and is accented by black leather-backed swivel chairs. The dining room features ash-white, exposed brick and televisions broadcasting the latest games. Fridays feature DJs and dancing, while on a recent Thursday, tables were full of families and birthday celebrations, while lone diners and couples caroused over cocktails, all fulfilling Banks’ "we have something for everyone" prophecy.

The Parkview, 3355 Merrick Rd., Wantagh, 516-308-7611, theparkviewrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 12 a.m., Sunday from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.